There's the pea coat and then there's the oft replicated, iconic Navy issue deck jacket, introduced in the late 40's and refined over the following years to include the storm flap and metal 'lobster clip' for easier closure and resistance to corrosion from the elements that the exposed zipper was prone to. Constructed from a densely woven 13 oz. gros grain deemed 'jungle cloth' or cotton 'bedford' cord and wind-proofed with a layer of organdy between the jungle cloth and wool lining.
It's been a grey and rainy afternoon in New York and with Labor Day having come and gone, it's generally around this time that I start wrapping my head around Fall's impending arrival en force. Don't get me wrong; I love Fall. The change in climate, the turning of the leaves, brisk mornings, brisker evenings are all things in New York(and just about anywhere else)that make the city new again. Trade the madras for flannel. Let the beard grow back in. Take the a/c outta the window. And it's in this frame of mind that I present a brief sampling of one of my favorite garments: the hooded jacket.
Tenue de Nimes, the Amsterdam-based denim concept shop, offers two videos of the same thing, a shoe, being produced in two very different ways.(They seem to be on a streak of producing highly-watchable videos. If you haven't yet, have a look at their short interview with The Man, mr. Nigel Cabourn.)
First, a visit to Grenson, in Rushden, Northamptonshire to have a look at the roughly 250 step process in making the traditionally English, Goodyear-welted Grenson shoe. With much of the work done by hand, Grenson still produces footwear much the same way (not entirely, of course.) and to the same standards as it has since 1866. The pride taken in their Goodyear welt is evident. And you'll notice a pair of 40 year old Grenson's in there for repair. Goodyear welting allows the shoe to essentially be rebuilt from the sole up and worn for a lifetime. It's a really interesting look at the modern state of the British Heritage brand.
The second, from Tenue de Nimes blog, follows a pair of shoes, beginning to end, manufactured by MOMA. Now, although their line isn't my thing(*NOTE: I make exception for their desert boots and a few others. They look rather good and I wouldn't be surprised if J.Crew's MacAlister boot wasn't manufactured in the same factory. Anyone know?), the very stylized video had my complete attention. It hums with effeciency. Certainly a different feel from the very personal, hands on Grenson approach, but very cool none the less. You'll notice the main difference between the two, aside from Grenson's roughly 120 year seniority, is the sole construction.
It's an interesting side by side comparison in manufacturing and qualities inherent to each step along the way. No pun intended.
Perhaps it's the recent cold snap. And perhaps attendant to the fact that Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Norgay Tenzing accomplished the near impossible, summiting Mount Everest(ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ) on May 29th, 1953, with unfalterng style (see Nigel Cabourn). In either case, take notes. It's cold out there.
