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On a recent visit to EXTRA, Koji Kusakabe's shop just off the Bowery, I had the pleasure of talking a while with Koji about all things vintage.
Koji's, who now resides in the city, began making vintage buying trips to the US from Japan, back in the early 80's. American denim had become highly sought after in Japan and few used clothing stores here knew what they had.
California came around first, in the mid-80's, but Koji told me he could still come to the states and spend most of his time in NYC, grabbing up highly collectible pieces for next to nothing.
Some twenty-five years later, Koji's opened EXTRA.

Japanese Men's book, BRUTUS, has a few stories that caught my attention in their Fall/Winter issue. I am told that they concern Engineered Garments' collaboration with Golden Bear of San Francisco, Alden of New England and Italian milliners Borsalino. Or at least that's what my translator has told me.