Friday, April 2, 2010

A Dark & Stormy Night: J.Crew Fall 10 Preview.

It couldn't have been any nicer of a day in the penthouse at Milk Studios where J. Crew presented their Men's and Women's Fall 10 collections. With the doors to the deck wide open, sun shining, the view clear west across the Hudson, Dark & Stormies being passed, it was quite a different setting from the previous presentation, elevating the whole event to great and dramatic effect. Only added to visually by the very Irving Penn-like(I don't mean the "corner"), simple and strong set...And once again, Frank Muytjens and his team show why he gained GQ's nomination this year. You just want to put the clothes on, and with this collection, go get lost in the woods like Nick Adams. As usual, great outerwear from the Expedition Down jacket(now on my list) to the Field Mechanics jacket. Footwear is heavy on Russell's and the excellent Alden Longwings and Chukkas. I was stoked to see a Kelty rucksack in the mix as well as the tone on tone patched chinos using faded vintage fabrics that give really subtle and slight variation to them. And the suiting continues to impress me, especially the beautiful marled gray wool up front(also now on my list). A really solid, well built, extremely well edited, wonderfully styled collection (J.Crew does not joke when they tell you "Jack knows best")and another home run for Frank and his crew.
With such a nice day, good people, an open deck and an open bar, I decided to stick around to see Women's. And I'm so glad I did. It is fire. Just beautifully put together. Jenna keeps pushing women's to really great heights and had to congratulate her on it.
So well done by all involved. CLICK BELOW for more photos of the event as well as some selected images from the lookbook.































17 comments:

Mr Ryan said...

Sounds like a great day!

R.A. said...

Thanks for the shots and lookbook pictures! It looks like the down pieces are from Crescent Down Works?

Pete said...

Thanks for posting. Kelty pack is v. interesting.

free/man said...

I love how J Crew presents each collection. Wish I could see it in person!
DMH

JCrewAholics said...

What a fab preview!

Ulysses said...

This infuriates me for various reasons. One, can J Crew please stop trying to transcend the realm of every heritage era. Let us pause and take a look at the brands they are merely imitating. Filson, Sierra Designs, Pacific Iron Works, LL Bean, Marmot Mountain Works, REI Mountain Works, the list could continue. Since when did J Crew go mountaineering? This kind of stuff has a place in the heart of those who truly understand its relevance, and utilize its functionality. It should not be made mainstream for the bunch of fucks who patrol the streets of New York, vibing everyone who doesn't have on a heritage piece, yet they just started wearing it less than a year ago. It's utterly disheartening to see J Crew do something like this. I'm sorry, but it is nice to be someone who has been wearing this stuff for years, and now I'm going to have to see this shit everywhere. Is that a fucking Kelty bag? No little trust fund piece of shit should be wearing that. I've had that same exact pack, but made by REI, for the last 10 years of my life; passed down by my elders. Seriously, same fucking colors, even the weaved draw string for the pack opening. I know you may not understand why I feel this way, but you must have some sympathy. An era so beautifully lived should not be subject to such replication.

Spencer Howard said...

I like it... and I've never really liked Crew. I can't wait to buy!

+S

JP said...

someone apparently needs a dark and stormy...

i kind of agree...they just rip off whats popular of the moment but in their defense and to their credit, no mainstream 'major' label has done a better job of taking cues from current menswear and incorporating it on a mass level at approachable prices.

JD said...

Kelty, Russell Mocs, Crescent Down Works. What Japan has been curating for years. Not that much of a surprise. People are finally paying attention and willing to maybe pay for it.

NERDS WITHOUT BORDERS said...

Seems like J Crew have been enjoying what South Willard has been doing the past few seasons.

Anonymous said...

"i kind of agree...they just rip off whats popular of the moment but in their defense and to their credit, no mainstream 'major' label has done a better job of taking cues from current menswear and incorporating it on a mass level at approachable prices."

totally agree with this..

jeremy said...

i love how that down jacket looks like a cabourn ripoff

haha.

great collection though. its true jcrew rips brands off but is it that bad? i mean c'mon it doesn't bother me.

Ulysses you said you grabbed your bag at REI? I mean that's as mainstream as it gets. Its not like you found it in some secret cave of cool.

Also, the "trust fund pieces of shit" are probably going to be wearing all the brands jcrew is ripping off because they can afford it! haha.

Look i'm not trying to fuel the fire and I totally DO understand your point and its very valid.

I'm just saying at least jcrew is encouraging the masses to dress well.

Tuco said...

It was sad when J. Crew started selling Alden online. I thought they would have more integrity then to put a pair of Indy boots next to their made in China driving mocs. J. Crew will always be a brand that people go to buy basics although they have done a great job making those simple pieces a little bit more desirable.

Anonymous said...

It's so nice to hear that many agree that this is not an American brand. They make their "bespoke details" suits in china. They're a mall brand that has never had to make the real sacrifices that other brands have made in order make their mark on fashion.

Half that design team was wearing Prada 5 years ago, and now all take refuge in the "great outdoors," and Americana.

I'd love to see JCrew create thier own identity instead recreating Clarks, RRL, LLBean, or Nigel Caborn"s..

Praise to Ulysses! Way to cAll a spade a spade...

keeppedalling said...

I guess it poses the question of whether design ever is truly original. We all look to many avenues for inspiration in our lives, as do designers, architects, writers, and so on. Ulysses (and Anonymous), you cannot tell me that all of the brands you mentioned don't keep tabs on and "borrow" from the others. That they are all original. As a mountaineer and outdoorsman myself, I can appreciate the purpose in the average Joe valuing not only the aesthetic, but the functionality of the garments, footwear, packs, etc. The question I ask is, who will remain wearing these labels in the long run? When it's not "cool" to wear plaid, and as Jake mentioned, everyone is wearing Red Wings so now what? Why not just wear Red Wings Jake...forever. How many people will rise out of this trend, and realize that it is time to get stuck on these brands (especially the Made in America brands), this aesthetic, for life. Not to jump ship when the corporate fashion train starts to roll in a new direction, followed by the blogging caboose. Perhaps J Crew is helping to inspire all Americans as to the importance and value of Made in America, and to shed light on locally crafted, quality brands. Let it go. What's more important, that we are all wearing something different or that we are all supporting the product and values from companies such as Quoddy, Billykirk, Patagonia, to name but a few. Most will be on to something new soon enough, and I'm sure not all of those wearing Crescent down in Brooklyn are/will be doing it to be cool. Doesn't it get cold in Brooklyn?

Anonymous said...

In my opinion, J.Crew gets better with each new season. I have my eye on the gray, raglan-sleeve pullover. I can't tell from the photo whether it's a sweatshirt or a sweater, but I can tell that I need to own it.

I live in the provinces, and my local J.Crew won't be getting most of this stuff. They're always sending me over to their catalog phone. I would like to see and touch in person. Frustrating.

Anonymous said...

keeppedalling

Patagonia is made overseas for the most part, sadly they do not value American made goods and textiles like many of us. Patagonia has also started riping off their long time loyal customers, sending flawed products and not honoring their "iron clad guarantee." Their quality control is always on decline, ordered two Houdini jkts one is 4 inch longer than the other. Sunshade hoody holes, snags like a bitch..even paddle boarding and kayaking. One season you might wear a Medium the next a Large the next a Small, why can Patagonia not get it right?

I also wish JCrew would put more value in US made textiles as well. The items I last received from JCrew were lacking in quality, the button was falling off, the Vintage Slim and Straight cords were exact same taper.

Ditto...
my local J.Crew won't be getting most of this stuff. They're always sending me over to their catalog phone. I would like to see and touch in person. Frustrating.

The sales staff could always be more helpful in JCrew as well.

Jcrew's trapper jacket is a nice attempt but fails on the bi-swing. You can not shoot a high flyer with this jacket on!