Monday, February 14, 2011
There's the pea coat and then there's the oft replicated, iconic Navy issue deck jacket, introduced in the late 40's and refined over the following years to include the storm flap and metal 'lobster clip' for easier closure and resistance to corrosion from the elements that the exposed zipper was prone to. Constructed from a densely woven 13 oz. gros grain deemed 'jungle cloth' or cotton 'bedford' cord and wind-proofed with a layer of organdy between the jungle cloth and wool lining.
Many variations are out there. Buzz Rickson's N-40 and N-1 and the obsessively crafted Mister Freedom designed, Sugar Cane produced N-1H/"Troy" standout for attention to spec detail. 'D' patch pockets, blanket wool lining, storm cuff and band collar. Fleece versions; J. Crew's indigo dyed take, Nigel Cabourn's blanket lined winner, Healthknit's sherpa-lined Classic BOA Fleece. Steven Alan's shawl collar take on it. RL's spring weight replica. Dana Lee's excellent waxed canvas, alpaca-lined F/W offering, the same style made famous by Mr. Newman. A similar Spiewak. Vintage, a collector's Holy Grail. Batten down the hatches. manufactured Credit where it's due: much has been written on this jacket and I found a lot of good stuff out there. For legit Navy-ism posts, click over to Ozzie Freidman, Riveted and especially Sanforized. Second Skin and Cotton Duck cover similar interests. HERE and HERE for some good military related forums including some fairly informative deck jacket threads.